Cocoa Butter

Despite being around for thousands of years, many beauty consumers do not even know it exists, much less how many uses it has. After all, consumers probably feel more excited about using a product that feels like a luxurious spa experience rather than a cooking demonstration. Raw cocoa butter looks like an ingredient used to make chocolate fondue (partly because in a manner of speaking, it is). It is a stable fat rich in antioxidants and emollients and cheaply obtained in solid, unaltered form, making it a perfect option for beauty supply owners looking to cater to customers seeking more organic forms of moisturiser.

Cocoa butter (Photo credit: joana hard)

Cocoa butter comes from the same place that chocolate bars come from: the cacao bean. It is a byproduct of the chocolate-making process that could just as easily be combined with other ingredients to make white or milk chocolate. It was an empolyee of the Ghirardelli Chocolate factory that discovered that cocoa butter is what drips away when a bag of ground cacao beans is hung in a warm environment (the remaining product in the bag is turned into cocoa powder), a practice called the Broma process. When the dripping butter solidifies, it turns opaque pale yellow. At this point, the butter is considered pure and unrefined. If it is further processed by removing the colour and scent, it is considered refined; the colour and scent of the final product depends on how much refinement takes place.

Before  this discovery in 1865, the Mayans became aware of the power of the cacao bean, so much so that they even wrote the cacao tree into their creation story.  They drank it, ate it, gifted it and generally held it in very high regard. Cocoa butter as a cosmetic originatres in Africa, where it was used to keep skin moisturised, and it has been popular within the African-American community ever since.

In its raw, unrefined form, cocoa butter is a dry solid, not greasy at all, which helps with quick absorption into the skin. Many other moisturisers leave an oily film  that is supposed to be moisturising; cocoa butter‘s dry quality allows it to leave skin feeling fresh, light, yet still norished. It stays solid at room temperature but melts at body temperature, making it ideal as a solid moisturiser. For it to be spreadable within a lotion at room temperature, it must be combined, often in miniscule amounts, with other butters, oils and emulsifiers to create a finished product. In other words, if it comes in a pump the product likely contains a negligible amount of cocoa butter. Luckily, there are cocoa butter sticks available  that are hundred per cent pure cocoa butter and melt on contact with skin, making it very easy for application as a lip balm, eye moisturiser, spot treatment for hyperpigmentation and dry areas all over the body. Unfortunately pure cocoa butteris just too rich – and often pore-clogging – for most people to use on the face; only those with extremely dry skin should attempt to use the pure solid as an all-over facial moisturiser.

English: Roasted cocoa (cacao) beans (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

One of the reasons cocoa butter is so popular is because only those with sensitivities to chocolate or nuts have had allergic reactions to it. Every person is different, of course, but the likelihood of customers having a reaction to cocoa butter is extremely low, making it safe for most people to use. Soaps containing cocoa butter, depending on the specific formulation, have a slim chance of causing contact dermatitis or irritation, widening its appeal to those with even the most sensitive of skin, including babies and children.

It is impossible to talk about cocoa butter without talking about its inextricable connection to stretch marks and/or scars. Though it has been said for decades that cocoa butter helps fade scars, there are no solid scientific studies that definitively prove this. In fact, in a study done by American University of Beirut Medical Centre, there was no discernible difference between stretch marks treated with cocoa butter and with a placebo. Still many people swear it was cocoa butter that softened, if not all together eliminated, the appearance of their stretch marks. As with any pervasive beauty claim, take it with a grain of salt.

Still, cocoa butter has many other benefits that have nothing to do with making scars disappear. It is popular as a hair moisturiser for African-American women who seek a more natural way of adding oils to their hair without weighing it down, especially for women who are moving away from wigs and weaves towards growing out their own natural hair. Even for women with finer textured hair, it can be used as styling aid to keep hair in place, smooth down fly-aways, or as a deep-conditioning treatment. Hair products are easiest to work with in pomade or cream form, not solid. Therefore, be sure that cocoa butter is high up enough on the ingredient list that there will be noticeable results.

It is also very popular ingredients in hand and body lotions, body butters, eye creams, face moisturisers and many other topical moisturising creams. It even makes appearances in bath products; in its solid form, it melts in the hot water of the tub, surrounding the skin with soothing emollients when the skin is most receptive to absorbing moisture. Along with avoiding dry skin and hair, cocoa butter also serves as an excellent moisturiser for nails. Massaging cuticles with cocoa butter a few times a day is key to growing long, strong, hangnail-free nails. It is also an excellent base for a body scrub since it nourishes the skin while sloughing away dead skin cells.

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History and Future of Press and Curl Market

This is a large but mostly ignored market due primarily to the manufacturers and the professional cosmetology industry. The manufacturers, because they have not come up with any new innovative and practical methods or products directed in that area. The cosmetologist, because they do not feature, promote and advertise this service to the same degree as they do other services they perform. This is because they do not have any posters or other promotional material to use to promote this service. The cosmetologist depends on the manufacturers to supply such items, but because this market is all but ignored by the manufacturers, there are no promotional materials available for this purpose.

It is not quite clear where and when the hair pressing procedure began, but it actually began in Africa long before slavery in America. For thousands of years Africans knew no other skin colour or hair type other than their own. Their hair enhancing tools was the specially fashioned comb, now known as the Afro comb. They were designed to work on tight woolly hair. They were constructed of carved wood or animal bones into the shape of a make shift comb. Many hairstyles and designs denoted families and even whole tribes.

When the African slaves (there were slaves from other cultures, but they were referred to as ‘indentured servants,’ people who were in debt or impoverished in their native country, who could eventually work off or buy their freedom) were brought to America, they brought their traditions with them. The females were not allowed to groom themselves as they once did. But they used their imagination and ingenuity and found new ways to style and enhance their hair. Ironing of clothes was unknown to them in Africa. They found that this same method could be used to straighten their hair. However they had to invent new ways for this to work on hair. The answer was to take the original Afro comb and fashion it out of metal instead of wood or bones. This was the first pressing comb proto-type. The first innovated pressing comb was a dinner fork with a rag tied around the handle to prevent burning their hands. The first pressing oil was lard or cooking grease to keep from scorching the hair, and give longevity to the straightened appearance plus a gleaming shine to the hair.

One of the reason that the slaves, both male and female, wanted to straighten their hair was to in some way more resemble the appearance of the masters. Many slaves thought that if they could some how mimic the appearance of the masters, this would give them more favour with them, this did not always workout as expected. In old pictures that we see of slaves, the women is most always shown wearing a cloth ‘head wrap.’ The reason for this was that the head wrap served two purposes. One, that by heating the cloth before applying leps to maintain the press. Two, it would hide the natural appearance when it was not straight.

In the early 1990s when the pressing comb and related products were commercially developed and popularised by a woman named Annie Malone who started the first Afro American owned Beauty School Chain called Poro College in Chicago, Indianapolis, and St. Louis. Poro is a West African word meaning organisation dedication and discipline. Malone did not invent the pressing comb but did popularise it in conjunction with her related products line, because the true originator is unknown. She and her husband acquired a wealth of fourteen million dollars during the course of their business empire. She was the mentor and the inspiration for Madam C.J. Walker, who improved the pressing comb to be more affective on coarse kinky hair. Walker was granted a patent for the improvements. In the 1920s, Malone and Walker’s mission was to develop and devise improved ways to style female Afro kinky hair with products designed for that purpose that replaced make shift methods from thick petrolatum and axle grease to control kinky hair.

Walker included the pressing comb in her innovative ‘Shampoo Press and Curl’ kit that made her the first self made female millionaire in America, by using many of the innovation pioneered by Annie Malone, and improving of them. Although the original concept has been improved, the basic design is still the same. When commercial pressing oils were manufactured they were simply petrolatum mixed with mineral oil and fragrance added, they aided in giving longevity to the press by resisting moisture and it absorbed excessive heat and allowed for a smooth glide of the pressing comb through the hair. In the 1950s, Johnson Products under the Ultra Sheen Cream Satin Press banner produced a pressing Cream that gave a more natural non-greasy appearance to the press. Since that time, there has been little or no real improvement on the Press and Curl service, mainly because most of the attention was drawn to hair relaxing and the Curly Perm.

You must be aware of this fact that the Press and Curl is one element of professional cosmetology that the African American cosmetologist own and control. Other cultures can do relaxers and curly perms on Afro hair as well as any one. But Press and Curl service is almost non existent to other cultures, mainly because of the correct use of the pressing comb and the artistic use of the stove heated Marcel iron. So Afro cosmetologist should take advantage of this fact and use it to increase their business and all it takes is to let their potential new patrons know that they can do this service.

Can the flat iron replace the pressing comb?

The answer is no for a number of reasons. The pressing comb has been around for over a hundred years. The flat iron became popular in the late 1970s. However this is not a good reason for the comparison. The flat iron will smooth frizz and curls on most all hair. The pressing comb is designed to surround the hair shaft with heat with the teeth as a precursor to the pressing with the back of the comb. The flat iron (electronic or stove heated) have two flat heated plates that through a combination of heat and pressure forcing the cuticle flat against the body of the hair shaft.  When pressing or flat ironing, it is best to use some form of moisturiser, leave-in conditioner or light oil in order to allow for a smoother pull through. This will also protect the hair from excessive heat and allow the hair to retain the straight look longer.

The pressing comb is best for tight curly and so called kinky hair, because the pre-treatment with the teeth will allow for an easier smoother transition. An electric pressing comb or other electrically heated devices do not get hot enough for Afro natural hair, because this has has a stronger and more resistant cuticle structure.

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Q&A – Care for Relaxed Hair

Question:

How do I care for my relaxed hair?

Answer:

Most important thing is to find a trustworthy beautician. If you are doing perm on your hair home, you should follow the exact instructions. If you relaxed your hair properly, then dry your hair slowly and wait. Do not give too much heat on your hair, and do not shampoo right away. Dry your hair with a towel and apply oil. If the hair is dry naturally then you can blow dry your hair. Use conditioner and style your hair.

Moisturise your hair using water spray while you take shower. You can also use Leave-In Conditioner or other moisturising products. This is very important.

Most people relax their hair once in two or three months, if you trip your split ends regularly, it would help you greatly maintain healthy hair.

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Healthy Hair Tips for cool weather

First, moisturise and trim hair regularly to reduce dryness and breakage.

In general, most hair types become drier with cold temperature and less humidity. This is particularly due to the decrease activity of sebaceous glands reducing oil secretions. Not to mention, after the days in hot sun, sweating and chlorine in pools, your hair has been stripped of essential oils and nutrients.

It is suggested to apply either a daily moisturiser (oil sheen, lotion and so on) to your hair, especially the ends which are more prone to splitting and breakage when too dry. One of my favourites for dry hair is simply basic olive oil which can be used daily or applied heavily with a plastic cap the night before shampooing or with a thirty minute moist heat treatment. The moist heat works better than the basic hot oil treatment.

Also to further reduce your ends from splitting, it is just as important to get a good hair trim of at least quarter inch every six weeks as your ends are the oldest part of your hair strand.

Second, shampoo hair once a week.

Contrary to popular belief, even during cooler months, you should still wash your hair at least once a week followed by a moisturising conditioner with moist heat to allow ingredients to absorb better. Because of the more frequent moisturising products during the season, if your scalp is not clean often, you can get a build-up creating an environment for growth of the pityrosporum yeast.

This causes your hair follicles to become inflamed and irritated leading to a dry, itchy, flaky scalp called Seborrheic Dermatitis which is commonly called dandruff. Therefore, keeping the scalp clean at least once a week or more with a medicated shampoo containing either zinc, selenium sulfide, coal tar, salicylic acid or ketoconazole to be applied and left on scalp for at least ten minutes to allow deeper penetration into your follicles. Then follow with your favourite moisturising shampoo. Repeat every week until under control then do at least once a month as maintenance.

You may also use a Hydrocortisone Ointment from the drugstore to any itchy scalp area two or  three times a day. If issue still persists after a month, seek clinical evaluation by your dermatologist.

Third, keep hair follicles healthier from within.

Regardless of the temperature, it is just as critical to take care of the inside hair follicles. It is to care for your hair properly on  the outside. In addition to drinking at least eight to ten glasses of water everyday and eating proper nutrition, you should feed your hair follicles from within as hair grows from the inside of your scalp.

Topical products cannot absorb deep enough into scalp and the basic multi-vitamin hair vitamins are not specific enough. It would be superb if you can use all natural hair supplement.

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Skin Care for Winter-like Weather

Last March was fantastic. In Chicago it was around 80F and hotter than in Hawaii!!! We had Global Boiling over the just Global Warming. And now we suffer under the Global Freezing. Today in Chicago, the temperature was 30F which is below the freezing point! Here are some tips for you to keep your skin as healthy as possible.

Between the cooler outdoor temperatures and lots of indoor heat, the skin can become dehydrated and start to look dry and wrinkled. So, drinking plenty of water at least eight to ten times a day with eight ounce glass will help the skin keep more moisture from within. Actually because our body is made up of more than seventy-five per cent of water, it is a good way for skin to remain healthy year  round.

The face can take on a very dull, ashy look from the past months of warm weather and lots of sun exposure, especially since it is the most exposed area. Also the daily build-up of old, dead skin cells can give you a dull look. As part of a facial cleansing routine, use a facial scrub at least once or twice a week. After the first exfoliation, the face will feel renewed. Make-up will glide easier and overall look nicer. For deeper exfoliation, I recommend you to visit a dermatologist or spa for microdermasion or a series of chemical peels.

People constantly slough off skin cells everyday but sometimes not enough to get that ultimate glow. This is especially true when the skin gets darker in colour during the summer. I recommend you to use a body scrub with a body brush, loofah sponge or simply using the hand in a circular massaging motion to remove. It is very important to let all wash-cloths, brushes and sponges hang to dry to avoid a bacteria build-up which can lead to infection of skin and hair follicles. A weekly tub soak will also help eliminate extra skin cells and keep skin look fresh.

With the cooler outdoor temperatures plus indoor heat, skin can surely become very dry. Apply a daily facial moisturiser with alpha-hydroxy acid  which helps to retain moisture. To seal in body moisture, use a heavy body cream, even white petroleum jelly works well after shower. Use lukewarm (not hot) water to avoid drying skin more. Get a humidifier for your bedroom to put moisture in the air which will ultimately prevent skin from drying. Many times topical products alone are not completely effective. Start with a supplement that contains natural marine proteins and collagen to moisturise and improve your skin texture from within.

Now we are facing the hot summer and skin will need a moisturiser with a sun block. Although African-American skin has pigment which is somewhat protective of the sun, it is not totally resistant. So, even during the cool months like April (what!), the sun still shines (and is going to be stronger everyday now) and the UV (ultraviolet) ray exposure can cause skin cancer.

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